Category Archives: Bird Tips

15 Safety Tips for Bird Owners

Macaws for BlogBy Elaine Radford

IMAGINE if a 2-year-old child, who tests everything by putting it in his or her mouth, could fly, and you have a good idea of what’s involved in “birdproofing” your home. One of my most important tasks as a pet bird care writer is to warn you of potential dangers to your birds. In today’s complicated world, safety isn’t just a matter of common sense, because there are many hidden hazards that we learned about from the past tragedies of others. Here are 15 ways to keep your birds safe.

Clip those Wings!

I’ve heard every excuse in the book. “I feel like I’m crippling him.” “She gets upset when I clip her wings.” It’s true that birds that move primarily by flight — canaries, finches, and softbills — shouldn’t have their wings clipped, but parrots are in a different category. They exercise primarily by climbing, reserving flight for when they’re startled or traveling long distances. An inability to fly doesn’t handicap them one bit in a safe home environment. In fact, many flighted hookbills prefer to walk, climb or be carried around, and they may complain vociferously when asked to fly to their owners instead of being fetched.

Flighted parrots are most likely to take to the wing when something frightens them, awakening their instinct to fly away from predators. By the time they’ve calmed down, they could be out the door and miles away. Whatever distance they’ve traveled, they’re probably completely confused and thoroughly lost. My last rescue was a soaking wet cockatiel that had been brought down in one of the worst storms of the year. He’s fine now, but it was only luck that allowed him to get caught by a concerned human child instead of a hungry raccoon or feral cat.

Cockatiels seem to make frequent escapes, and I suspect it’s because they’re known for holding grudges against whoever clips their wings and nails. If your bird is a grudge holder, pay the small fee to have a pet groomer do it. And remember: Feathers grow back. Check your bird’s wings regularly to see if it’s time for another clipping.

Keep Nails Neatly Trimmed

I probably don’t need to remind you to regularly trim a parrot’s toenails. As soon as you feel those nails digging little holes in your arm, you’ll remember that it’s time. However, it’s also important to keep an eye on the nails of your other pet birds. Overly long nails do catch in things, sometimes to life-threatening effect. A few months ago, I discovered a canary caught by one toenail so that he couldn’t get out of the nest. He felt trapped and was flopping around upside down to try to get away. Fortunately, he’s okay now — miraculously, neither the leg nor the toe was broken — but I’ve heard similar stories that didn’t have such happy endings. Some trapped birds become severely injured, go into shock and die.

Learn About Toxic Plants

Some plants “want” to be eaten by birds so that they’ll distribute the seeds in their droppings as the birds fly far and wide, but other plants have developed natural toxins to discourage birds from nibbling on them. Some common plants contain deadly poisons.

White pine dowels, found in hardware stores, are safe but get munched pretty fast by determined parrots. Manzanita, found in specialty bird stores, is both tough and safe, perfect for places where you don’t want to keep replacing perches. Natural branches can provide great exercise for a chewing beak, but you must be selective. First, don’t take any branches from near a highway or any location where they might have been sprayed. Second, make sure you know what the tree is and that it’s nontoxic.

There’s a lot of controversy out there about what plants are “safe” and “unsafe.” I’d rather err on the side of caution, so I’ll just list as safe those few plants that I know for sure, from my personal experience, can be nibbled on at will by pet birds. In my aviary, I’ve used whole brassica plants like collards and broccoli, bromeliads, ornamental citrus, dogwood, several kinds of ferns, ficus (weeping fig), a variety of seeding grasses, windmill and sago palm, white pine and Norfolk pine, Japanese plum and spider plant. My canaries and finches particularly love ferns, but they didn’t mind snacking on a 6-foot-tall Norfolk pine until it was devoured down to the trunk.

Some unsafe plants include: caladium, cherry tree, dieffenbachia, holly, mistletoe, morning glory, oak, oleander, red maple and wisteria. Avocado, surprisingly, contains a toxin in its leaves, skin, bark and pits that’s deadly to birds. I have given away the avocado plants that I started from their pits.

Take Care in the Kitchen

Bird cages don’t belong in the kitchen at all, because the odors and temperature changes can overwhelm the sensitive avian respiratory system. Parrots become curious when you’re working with food, but keep them out of the kitchen when you’re cooking. Let them “help” make a fresh vegetable or fruit salad, but don’t allow them anywhere near hot burners, boiling pots, or other hazards.

Raw meat, especially poultry, may be contaminated with various organisms, particularly Salmonella. Always wash your hands thoroughly with hot water and soap after handling raw meat and before touching your bird or its possessions. Raw eggs may also be contaminated, so I use the shell only from hard-boiled eggs — never raw eggshells — whenever I want to provide this high calcium item to my birds.

Most beverages aren’t for the birds. Since milk is nature’s special food for baby mammals, birds have no mechanism for digesting it and may find it upsetting. Alcohol can intoxicate a bird with shockingly few sips, so keep your bird away from beverages containing it.

Birds shouldn’t be fed chocolate or avocado. Chocolate contains theobromine, a chemical that can kill birds that overeat it. Avocado contains toxins that are harmless to humans but hazardous to birds.

Nonstick Cookware

Nonstick cookware contains polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), a substance that emits fumes poisonous to birds when heated over 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Is it reasonable to assume that, for the rest of your bird-owning life, you will never, ever overheat a pan? I don’t think so. Therefore, from my house, I’ve eliminated all items with these coatings, which can include cookie sheets, pots and pans, and even small appliances like irons, curling irons, popcorn poppers and waffle irons.

There are now also nonstick drip pans fitted under some burners that may heat to dangerous temperatures every tine you cook. Remove any such drip pans. I’ve found that properly seasoned iron cooking pots and pans are just as easy to clean, and they supplement the food cooked in them with small particles of iron, a vital mineral.

Take Care in the Bathroom

Pet parrots love to shower, often with their owners. A shower can also be a quiet, private place to train a young parrot. However, because it’s a small, poorly ventilated room with confusing mirrors and a source of standing water, a bathroom is no place for an unsupervised bird.

Anything with a strong chemical smell can overwhelm a bird’s respiratory system, so cap and put away all cleaning and personal-care products that happen to be sitting out. Don’t allow your bird to lick your skin or nibble your hair until you’ve cleaned away all traces of chemically based substances like home permanents, hair conditioners, wet nail polish, sunscreen and so on. Each time I take a bird into the bathroom, I make a point of showing it its reflection in the various mirrors so it won’t suddenly notice it later and become startled.

Get in the habit of always putting down the lid on the toilet bowl. I’ve heard many tragic reports over the years of thirsty or curious birds that came to drink, slipped and drowned in either toilet bowls or half-full beverage glasses.

Provide a Safe Cage, Bird Play Gyms and Bird Toys

One of the most important things you can do for your bird’s safety is to provide the right equipment for the right bird. A large macaw cage might let a small conure trap its head between the bars or permit a finch to escape. Antique or decorative cages (meant to look at, not to use for birds) may contain lead and provide only enough room to exercise a houseplant. Whether buying or building your cages, make sure that your design is safe and appropriate for your pet.

Buy sturdy toys designed for the species of bird you own. Examine them carefully for parts that could splinter or trap an active toe or tongue. Flimsy bells, thin wire, monofilament or other thin string can make deadly traps. Always supervise the bird the first time it plays with a new toy, just to make sure that it’s safe.

Situate Bird Play Gyms and cages out of drafts and well away from anything that could tempt a bird to reach out and chew — including the paint on the walls or a nearby electric cord. Try to take the parrot’s eye view. For instance, what looks like a simple electrical cord to us may resemble a fascinating jungle vine to a curious parrot.

Provide Safe Outdoor Aviaries

Walk-in aviaries should be built with double doors so there’s no way for your birds to escape when you’re entering and exiting. Birds should be able to get in and out of the hot sun at will, and they should have clean, dry roost boxes snug enough to retreat to when it’s cold or wet. In some areas, you may be able to keep your bird outside all year, with the help of infrared lamps to heat roost boxes on the coldest nights. However, if your climate is usually mild, an extremely cold snap means that you should take your birds inside for the duration because they’ve had no chance to become acclimated to frigid weather.

Canaries should be inoculated for canary pox or else completely protected from mosquitoes by mosquito netting over the aviary. For that matter, in this age of West Nile virus, it’s my humble opinion that all outdoor bird aviaries require mosquito netting. Fire ants, a growing problem in my area, can kill baby birds of all species. I relentlessly attack any mounds I see with Amdro, which is the only product I’ve had much luck with. You can’t put it anywhere a bird, turtle, or fish can get at it, so keep a watch out for those ant trails before they start streaming into your bird flights. Always follow the manufacturer’s directions when treating an area for fire ants. Misuse of the product can kill birds.

More recently, I have begun experimenting with white vinegar to disrupt ant hormones and to kill nests. If it works, then it will be a safer solution for removing ant nests.

Know the predators in your area, and make sure that your aviaries will keep them out. A raised deck or concrete floor may be needed to keep out diggers like rats or armadillos. Raccoons, opossums and feral cats make short work of flimsily constructed aviaries. Use 1/4 inch hardware cloth to keep greedy paws from reaching in. Whenever you see cats sitting around the aviary making your birds nervous, spray them with water so that they’ll get the hint they’re not welcome.

Avoid Lead Poisoning

Let your bird exercise its beak on the proper perches and toys, not at will. Many items in the home environment may contain lead, including galvanized wire, old paints, solder, hardware cloth, curtain and fishing weights, old bells with lead clappers, antiques, stained glass, ceramics, batteries, ammunition, costume jewelry, mirror backing, and welds on imported or antique cages.

Lead water pipes or pipes soldered with lead will contaminate your tap water, poisoning humans and birds alike. Unfortunately, if tests show that your drinking water is contaminated with lead, you’ll need to replace the lead joints with a safe material like copper. Meanwhile, provide distilled or spring water to your family. It’s worth it.

Learn About Radon and Other Toxic Gases

The atmosphere of a tightly sealed, energy-efficient home can actually be more polluted than that of a big city outside. You need a kit to check for radon, an odorless carcinogen. You can smell formaldehyde, used in such items as plywood, curtains and carpets, when you enter a brand-new house or one where new carpets have just been installed. Air out the place thoroughly, preferably for a week or two, before moving in with your birds. Move your pets out again whenever having new carpets, insulation and so on installed.

Gas and kerosene heaters can emit carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxide, which suffocates birds and people by depriving them of oxygen. Make sure your heaters are in good repair, and don’t use doubtful equipment. Personally, I think a well-ventilated home that has to be kept a little cooler to save on fuel costs is a lot safer than a tightly sealed fortress of energy efficiency. It’s more comfortable for the birds too.

Use Safe Pest Control

The first line of defense against insects, rodents, mold, mildew, bacteria and viruses is to keep home and bird areas meticulously clean. However, these life forms are determined enemies, so we may need to seek out chemical weapons that don’t hurt our birds. For instance, sticky traps or flypaper in places birds can’t reach can remove these pests without the need for sprays that may get into our pets’ lungs. A dog or cat can be dipped for fleas in a pyrethrin-based product, a natural insecticide that is bird safe. Many bird owners have successfully used Camicide Dry Mist Flea Killer to treat carpets, upholstery and animal bedding.

When you need an exterminator, send your birds away from home for a minimum of 24 hours after treatment — more if the exterminator says so. Air out the place before the birds return home.

Protect Your Birds From Other Pets

Don’t leave birds alone in a room with a dog or a cat. A young puppy brought into a home where a parrot is already living will probably always respect the natural dominance of the parrot, but a cat’s instinct is to hunt, and one day that bird conveniently trapped in a cage may become an irresistible temptation. Many cats carry bacteria on their claws or teeth that can kill birds. In some cases, even a shallow scratch from a cat has proven to be fatal.

Don’t Let Birds Overheat

Did you know that birds have no sweat glands? Although many favorite species are from the tropics, in the wild they would be active under deep shade or at higher elevations, places that may be as much as 20 degrees cooler than a sunny North American backyard in high summer. Don’t put bird cages in window skylights that get direct sunlight. A bird must always be able to retreat to the shade. A bird left in a closed, parked car may die within minutes.

Make Sure Your Car is Bird Safe

Keep your exhaust system well maintained, because carbon monoxide or other dangerous gases will hurt your bird first. I don’t want to spoil anybody’s fun, but a parrot doesn’t belong on your shoulder when you’re trying to drive. Place your bird in a cage that can be locked and secured into place with seat belts. You wouldn’t want a minor blow-out becoming a major catastrophe because the noise startled your bird and had it flapping its wings in your face. Take out any hanging toys that might be in the cage for the duration of the drive, and bring along a towel to partially or fully cover the cage if the bird becomes tired or cranky. Never leave a bird alone in a car where it may become a target for thieves or a victim of heat exhaustion. I advise never traveling alone with a bird for long distances. You’ll need that extra human to watch over the bird while you’re gassing up or visiting the restroom.

Plan for Emergencies

To deter thieves, consider installing a home-security system appropriate to your area. Most thieves are looking for items they can sell quickly, so you may wish to consult with your avian vet about having microchips implanted in your birds or taking DNA samples from them to provide lasting proof of ownership that reduces their value on the black market. Place padlocks on cage doors so that a thief can’t just reach in and scoop out a parrot on impulse. Most thieves aren’t going to try to climb out of a side window with an entire cage. When people ask, imply that your birds aren’t worth much money, even if they are.

Fire can strike anywhere. Install smoke detectors and check the batteries often. Get some “Attention: Caged Pet” decals to notify firefighters to rescue your birds. Install wheels on heavy cages so that your birds can be rolled, cage and all, to the safety of the outdoors.

Be aware of other emergencies that can arise in your area. Do you have enough travel cages to transport your birds quickly and efficiently if there’s a flood, hurricane or other disaster that forces you to evacuate? A small investment in travel cages proved a life saver when we had to evacuate for Hurricane Katrina. Do you have a friend or relative some distance away that you can visit when you’re evacuated, since many shelters don’t allow pets? (Thanks to Katrina, there is renewed awareness that some people won’t evacuate if shelters don’t allow pets, and more shelters are becoming pet-friendly, but it’s always wise to have options.) Now, while it’s calm, is the time to consider these questions. We sincerely hope that you’ll never have to put your emergency plans into practice, but if you do, your preparations will give your birds (and yourself) a much better chance of healthy survival. With birds, as with people, safety is often a matter of thinking ahead and informing yourself.

These are great tips for the beginner bird owner all the way to the more experienced bird owner.  Ann Zych – FunTime Birdy

The 3 Steps to Teaching your Bird to Play with Bird Toys

Your Pet Wants this Too HD Version from Sharp Entertainment 2Every bird like every human is an individual with individual likes and dislikes. Sharing my life with birds for over 25 years, I have found that when I have maintained these three steps I have been able to turn the most finicky birds into to bird toy players.

Demonstrate New Bird Toys to your Birds

I have found the best way to teach a bird to play with bird toys is to demonstrate how much fun their new parrot toy is to play with by playing with it yourself. Birds are flock animals and in a human home you are their flock. Birds love to play with things that you are using like your pen or the telephone. This is because they see you do it and they feel it must be fun if all your attention is focused on writing or talking on the phone. Birds see our human nose as an equivalent to their bird beak, so what you want to do is “beak” their new bird toy with your nose. Laugh and have fun while you are playing with it. Laughing and having fun is the key here. If all your attention is focused on their new bird toy then your bird will feel like they want to get in on the action. After all you’re having fun they want to have fun too. If you have another family member that is willing to help you with this then you can have them beak the toy with their nose as well with both of you taking turns “beaking” and having fun.

Over the years, my flock has varied in playing activity. My Double Yellow Headed Amazon, Kiwi, is what I have termed the “Player”. You can give Kiwi any toy and he will dive right in and play. However, my Cockatoo Marshmellow is what I have called the “Non Player”. Marshmellow was always disinterested in playing with her bird toys. Marshmellow was my first challenge in learning to teach my birds to play. Marshmellow would chew wood but become bored very fast and just sit there. I realized that Marshmellow did not realize how to play with the other bird toys that I provided her with. I had a toy in her cage that had spinning molecules on an acrylic rod. I thought she would love to have fun spinning the molecules but she never played with it. That is when I realized she did not understand what to do. I took the toy out of her cage and started playing with it. I would twirl the molecules and make them spin with my nose while laughing and having fun. Within minutes, Marshmellow came over to me to see why I was having so much fun. Marshmellow then tried it for herself. She spun the molecule and ran away and them came back and spun it again. I encouraged her by laughing and in the moments that she walked away, I would spin it again myself. It then became a game that we could both play. I was then able to put the toy back in her cage and now she was having fun spinning the molecules all around by herself in her cage.

I know what you are thinking, you feel kind of silly doing this. I had customer write me after trying this to tell me that he read what I wrote and figured he would give it a try though he did not believe it would work. He then went on to say “I felt so foolish being a 30 year old man giggling and cooing while “beaking” a bird toy while his cockatiel looks on but this method really works!” He went on to say that “within several minutes his Cockatiel was busy playing. “

Provide Different Types of Bird Toys

This is very important. Just like humans not everyone likes the same flavor ice cream and not every bird will like the same type of bird toy. In fact, sometimes you may get on a chocolate ice cream kick and always have chocolate ice cream. Then one day you are just sick of it and don’t want it again for a while. This doesn’t mean you hate chocolate ice cream it just means you want a change. Birds can also be like that. They may love soft wood and then one day they just decide they are bored with soft wood and don’t want play with a soft wood bird toy for a while. You may be showing your bird how to play with a particular bird toy and he just doesn’t seem interested no matter how many times you try. This doesn’t mean your bird will never play or that he will never play with that particular toy. It simply means that at this point in time he may not want to play with a bird toy consisting of that texture. What you can do is try to peak his interest for a while and then maybe try with a different textured toy and come back to that toy at a different time. This is why it is very important to provide diversity with bird toys. When teaching my birds to play, I provide them with an assortment of different parrot toys consisting of different textures like soft wood, soft chewable plastic, leather and Supreme cotton rope for preening. Depending on their mood at the time they may like all of these toys or just one of these parrot toys.

Patience

Most importantly when teaching your bird to play is to be patient and not give up. Some birds will get it right away and others will take time. I have found in life that I have a greater appreciation for the things I worked hard for more than I have for the things that came easy to me. Teaching your bird to play is no different. Being dedicated to your goal and finally achieving it has a greater reward for both you and your bird.

I really cherish the time I spend teaching my birds to play with bird toys. The time I spend with them creates such a close bond of love and companionship. I really feel that this experience will bring you both closer together and create a deep bond of trust.

So do not ever give up on your feathered friend learning to play. When it happens and it will eventually happen that feeling of satisfaction and love can match no other feeling in the world!

Adopting a Rescue Bird

For Flapping FeathersParrots can make wonderful companions and pets. However, not everyone is cut out to be a bird owner. There is a lot of responsibility, dedication and cost involved. Being a good parrot owner entails more than simply feeding your bird every day and placing a couple of parrot toys  in their cage. Some people are not fully prepared for the demands of caring for a parrot before they rush out and buy one. As a result, many birds end up in shelters or rescues, looking for a new family. This is a sad situation for any bird, since rescue parrots can be hard to place.

There are many reasons people give up their parrots. These include:

•    Lack of Time: Most birds need more than a bird cage . They need human interaction. They need you to take them out of their cage and play with them on their parrot playgym or bird stand. They need your time and attention. With today’s hectic lifestyle, many people discover that they do not have time to care for a parrot.

•    Lack of Money: Parrots can be expensive to care for. If you have a large parrot, you will need to invest in a sizeable birdcage, which can be costly. Food, treats and parrot toys can also add up quickly. Not to mention trips to the veterinarian and any medications, vitamins or supplements your bird will need.

•    Life Changes: A move, new job or new baby can add up to a lot of demands, leaving little or no energy for a parrot.  If you are considering purchasing your first feathered friend, or if you simply want to add to your feathered flock, you may want to consider giving a dislocated parrot a good home. That being said—you should be prepared for the challenges of raising and caring for an adopted feathered friend. Not everyone is up for the task. Here are a few things to ask yourself:
•    Do you have a lot of patience? Oftentimes, rescue birds have been neglected and abused. As a result, they may have behavioral difficulties and trust issues. These parrots need a lot of time, attention and love to regain their trust in people. Initially, you may have to spend double the amount of time with a rescue parrot, as you would with one you already own. You may also need to help your feathered friend overcome behavioral issues such as feather-plucking, biting or constant screaming. This process will take time and patience.

•    Do you have experience with birds? The more experience and knowledge you have, the better. It will give you a tremendous edge when working with rescue birds. However, even if you are a new parrot owner, as long as you are dedicated, aware of the challenges and have experienced people to help you out, you will do fine.

Not all rescue birds are aggressive, sullen or mistrustful. Some come from good homes that simply cannot care for them anymore. However, you never know what you will get. Go in with both eyes open—be committed and willing to help the feathered friend you choose.

Give your Feathered Friend an Extra Special Hug Today

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So, so true and so sad to think that there are birds out there that aren’t treasured and loved as much as they love us. Thanks to Gail P. for sending this to me.

Ann Zych – FunTime Birdy

Why is My Parrot Afraid of his/her Bird Toys?

Silly Willy 4Every parrot is different in personality. Some parrots love to play with a new parrot toy right away while some parrots can be very picky about which bird toy they will play with. There are even some birds that are literally terrified of bird toys and will not play with bird toys at all.

Parrots are a lot like humans in the way they are very perceptive with anything new being introduced in their environment. Imagine if you had delivered to your doorstep an odd shaped and colored box. Not only was this box weird looking and had colors you never seen before, it was also making a ticking sound. You probably would take a step back and say “What the hell is inside that weird shaped and colored box and why the hell is it ticking”. Would you call the Police or the Bomb Squad? Would you be able to sleep that night? Birds are the same way. They are very perceptive of their surroundings and anything new in their environment is a scary deal until they know that the item will not hurt them.

I remember an instance with our Umbrella Cockatoo Marshmellow…..we purchased a new kitchen mat that had a black and white cow on it. The first time we brought Marshmellow into the kitchen after we purchased the new mat, she started to squawk and flap her wings in desperation to get away. When we finally brought her to another room, she was still breathing heavy and you could tell she was visibly shaken. It was months, if not a year before she was OK with the new kitchen mat. Maybe she was attacked by a black and white cow in a previous life but anyway we learned our lesson with Marshmellow and introducing anything new to her.

Introduce a new parrot toy slowly to your bird’s environment. At first, place the bird toy 10 feet from their cage for a couple of days. This way your bird can keep an eye on it for a couple of days until he/she gets used to it. After a couple of days, place the bird toy outside the cage towards the bottom of the cage and see how your feathered friend reacts. If your bird does not seem terrified, place the bird toy inside their cage next. Also, try playing with the bird toy in front of your bird. They will then see that it is not harmful to them. Have you ever noticed that parrots love to play with things we use in everyday life? With this being the case, play with the bird toy like it is your toy and watch your parrot wanting that bird toy even more.

Bird Safe Cookware by Susan Chamberlain

233826a67be66a810b23a263230da62e_XLAs written by Susan Chamberlain for BirdChannel.com

It’s a jungle in here! Sharing your home with a pet bird is more than a hobby. It’s a lifestyle. Because our birds have such sensitive respiratory systems, we must be extremely careful when choosing cookware and other kitchen appliances.

Nonstick coatings contain polytetrafluoroethelyne (PTFE), a polymer that deteriorates when overheated. The resulting fumes (gas and minute particulate matter) may kill pet birds. Humans sometimes report flu-like symptoms after exposure to these fumes.

Teflon is a brand name. Nonstick surfaces containing PTFE are marketed under many different brand names. Just because a product does not say Teflon, it does not mean that it is free of PTFE.

Manufacturers disagree about the temperature levels that nonstick surfaces must reach to emit harmful fumes. Some place it at 560 degrees Fahrenheit while others somewhere above or below that figure. Past research showed that products actually begin releasing such fumes at the beginning of the heating process, and some people reported that pet birds died when nonstick products were heated to temperatures below 560 degrees Fahrenheit.  A few manufacturers, like Corning Revere, print warnings in product instructions against using nonstick cookware around pet birds, but you must read the fine print to find it.

Instead of nonstick cookware, try:

Stainless steel
Copper-clad stainless steel
Copper
Corningware, the classic, white oven-to-table ware
Glass
Aluminum
Cast iron

Ann Zych – FunTime Birdy.com

Jerry Our African Greys New Feathers

We are so happy to announce that our African Grey Jerry has 95% of all his feathers back.

We adopted Jerry back in 2001 and he has on and off been a feather plucker.  After changing his diet last year to only vegetables and Harrison’s Pellets and Roudybush pellets his feathers made a comeback….. Plus every other night on his dinner veggie meal we sprinkle some Hemp Seeds and Pumpkin Seeds (No salt ) on top of his veggies.

Check out Jerry’s photos below in chronological order.

Ann Zych – FunTime Birdy

Jerry1Jerry2Jerry1 Jerry2 Jerry3